Buying Jewellery at Auction

jewellery auction

Buying at jewellery auction is contentious for some people. Second hand jewellery may not be appealing.  Truth be told, jewellery offered at auction is sourced from a variety of channels; be it from private individuals whom are selling their jewellery  in order to release capital; new and barely worn jewellery ceased by the police and offered at auction, and unsold back stock from major and minor jewellery retailers.

In my time working at an auction house, I have seen some amazing jewels pass through auction. Jewellery of interesting provenance,  personal effects of social and historical significance and I have to mention great deals available for valuable for diamonds.

Whatever your position on purchasing second-hand engagement rings, wedding rings and other jewellery at auction; it is a valuable place to purchase antique and vintage, and designer jewellery for a fraction of the price, saving up to 50 % versus buying new at retail.

 Bidding at Auction

Price achieved at auction is dictated by many factors – namely trending fashions, gold price etc. Most notably governed by the amount of competing bidders on the day. Technological advances have created additional channels for bidding at auction, therefore competition is on a local and global scale.

Items are listed referred to as ‘lots’ – there may be one, two or a collection of jewellery items offered in one lot.  A catalogue of the auction is published with photographs, accompanying descriptions of each jewellery item and presale estimates –  a price range prediction of what the jewellery might realise. The lowest estimation is usually the reserve – the price the consignor or vendor is not willing to sell below.

Bidding increments – depending on the estimate of the item- bidding goes up in increments of £5, £10, £20, £50, £100, £1000.

Auction houses charge roughly 20- 25 % (inclusive of VAT) buyers’ premium of your total purchase/bid price. Usually on items over a ten thousand pounds, the percentage is roughly 10- 15%. If a jewellery item is new or from a VAT registered vendor, an additional 20 % VAT shall be added to your total bill.

     pound icon         OLD-  £ your bid +±20 % buyers’ premium+ postage fee = total cost

                                  NEW- £ your bid +± 20 % buyers’ premium+ 20 % VAT + postage fee = total cost


Ways to Bid

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  •  Bidding in the room On the day of the auction, you may opt to attend the auction in person – this is advantageous as you can fully assess the mood of the saleroom.  You shall be registered and given a paddle number – a reference to identifying who you are when bidding.
  •  Telephone bidding – Upon your request, a member of staff  (of the auction house) shall ring you when  your  ‘lot’ or jewellery item is scheduled  to be offered.  One experiences the auction vicariously. Bidding activity is relayed to you by the staff member and bids on your behalf when prompted by you.  I would advise setting a budget, as one can get carried away with the fast pace and pressure of the ‘theatre of auction’.
  • Bidding Online –  You may to bid online via the online auction platforms (listed below) which host a large selection of auction houses from around the world  
  • Absentee Bid  –  You fill out a commission bid form indicating  the lots and the maximum amount you are willing to bid up to.

NOTE : On top of your bid price, you have to factor in buyers premium (a percentage inclusive of VAT you have to pay on top of bid price which an auction house charges). New jewellery offered at auction and jewellery from VAT vendors carries an additional 20 %VAT – an asterisk or similar icon will clearly mark these items.

Online Platforms to Bid – Auction Hosting Websites

These are selection of online auction marketplaces which host specialist and general auction houses from around the world. Specifically, live and timed jewellery occur on a weekly and fortnightly basis. For the privilege of bidding live on these platforms, there is an additional charge 3- 3.6% (including VAT) on top of your total bid price and buyer’s premium. UK based platform, hosts a majority of auction houses from the UK, including USA, Europe and South Africa.   Scandinavian based platform hosting the leading international auction houses (eg. Christie’s, Sothbey’s, etc.) and other notable UK  and European auction houses. Additionally offering items fromantique and vintage dealers from around the world. based in the UK and USA. Host a comprehensive list of auctioneers and galleries in the USA, East and West Europe, Middle East and Asia. based in the UK  and USA. Host a large selection of auctioneers from the USA, Europe, Asia and the rest of the world. based in the UK. Hosts auctioneers in Ireland, Portugal and Spain.

        pound icon   –  £ your bid + 20 – 25 % buyers’ premium+3 – 3.6% fee+ postage fee = total cost

                     –  £ your bid +20 – 25 % buyers’ premium+ 20 % VAT + 3 – 3.6% fee+ postage fee= total cost


Viewing Times

Usually  jewellery on offer is on view at the weekend and three days before the sale day. Most jewellery auctions are held on a weekday. This is an opportunity to handle the jewellery  and assess general condition of the piece. To see if the photograph is true representation the jewel.

If however you are not able to view the items in person, you may request a verbal or written condition report – An in-house jewellery specialist shall assess of the different components of the jewellery piece. eg. Is the diamond or gemstone a beautiful stone (i.e bright and lively, no fractures or abrasion)?  Are there significant scratches on the gold of metal? Can the ring be resized etc?


Usually items are shipped to you at a cost of around £20 for Royal Mail registered post-  insured for up to £2500. Items of above value are despatched by courier e.g .Fedex, UPS or other local couriers. Alternately, you may also collect the items in person.

Going once, going twice…Happy Bidding!


Jewellery Watches – Cocktail Watches

FROM MY DIAMOND EYE, these are some of the best jewellery watches. Made by the leading jewellery houses and horology specialists. Defined by great craftsmanship – measured to be magnificent jewels to be worn and treasured for generations. This collection of jewellery watches embodies classicism with tones of modernity, elegant femininity and exceptional artistry. Who says utilitarianism cannot be beauteous!


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David Morris – The Colombian emerald and diamond watch is a wonder. A splendour of 22.27ct emerald cabochon married with 15.52ct of crisp white diamonds with no metal in sight, is truly a magnificent jewel.


Pagiet - white gold diamond

Piaget- Limelight watch with design notes of early 20th century. A simple dial within a sweeping marquise-cut diamond leaf motif surround on a textured bracelet is elegant and timeless.

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Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso Cordonnet Deatto  geometric pave-set diamond watch is reminiscent of Art Deco aesthetic. Of manual movement, the dial set with lapis lazuli surrounded by a galaxy of diamonds occupying the entire case and bracelet is an exquisite jewel piece.


Graff leaf


Graff Leaf – An exceptional diamond and sapphire jewellery watch. “The most exceptional jewels of the world” -Graff



Floral Graff

Graff – Floral Graff The mosaic floral blossom of mother-of-pearl radial dial, diamonds and cabochon ruby marquetry is an absolute testament to great craftsmanship.

Omega De Ville pearl- 1

Omega De Ville Ladymatic 18ct gold rose gold with diamond numbers on a mother-of-pearl dial within a peppered  pave-set diamond bezel and a bracelet inter-fused with a dynamic arrangement of pearls and diamonds is an unexpected delight from Omega.

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Van Cleef and Arpels-  Alhambra Bracelet watch. The mother-of-Pearl Alhambra is one of my favourite design motifs. It embodies an instant vintage modern style.

Pagiet- White diamondPaiget- Emerald

Paiget Limelight Garden Party Collection

Of foilate design, the 18ct gold case with pavé-set diamond dial, brilliant-cut diamond bezel within a marquise-cut diamond  & ‘cognac’ diamond spray. The softer hues make it a good alternative to complement day dress, however it can easily translate to evening dress accessory on warm summer nights.

The second, of similar design is set in 18ct gold white gold with ten marquise-shape emeralds of exquisite colour and tone, interspersed with graduating white brilliant-cut diamond. One to complement evening dress.



On the chic streets of leafy Chelsea,  housed in a distinct  Art Deco building is an Artist Jeweller- Theo Fennell.

His jewellery is a collection of magnificent creations- imagined and created by a group of craftsmen, skilled at marrying the splendour of optical and physical characteristics of gemstones, gold and the allegorical mysteries of art.

On a recent visit to London, I went to the Theo Fenell Head Quarters. The lovely lady at the store graciously let me ‘have a play‘ with these amazing jewels.  I awed, I wore and I loved the JEWEL ART.

FROM MY DIAMOND EYE,   these are the master pieces.

Master Rings

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 Theo Fennell – 42.66ct Emerald Opening Kissing Frogs Ring

When the ring is opened, incident light from the emerald is  reflected and refracted inside the ring to create glistening spectral colours of  ‘water’ surrounding the two kissing frogs .Ada and Eve4- TF

Theo Fennell – Adam and Eve Ring
TF- selection

Theo Fennell – Over the Rainbow Ring, Emerald Ctiy Ring, The Chinese Secret Garden Ring



Master Brooch
Shaka Zulu

Theo Fennell – Shaka Zulu Brooch

The Great African –  Zulu Leader and Visionary – South Africa


Master Pendants

TF- Pendant selection

Theo Fennell – Celestial Night Pendant- 18ct gold  sapphire and diamond

Magical Dawn Phi Pendant and Cross Pendant  –  18ct gold pink sapphire and diamond

Wild Rose Tryst Pendant- 18ct gold and rose gold and with rose cut  diamond

Key Pendant-  18ct gold pavé-set diamonds